This module contains 3 Sloth chaos circuits. Each one runs
at a different rate; Torpor takes approx. 15-30 seconds to travel around 2
strange attractors, Apathy takes 60-90 seconds and Inertia takes 30-40 minutes.
There are no controls for Inertia, it does what it wants.
The pots for Apathy and Torpor do not specifically alter the
frequencies, rather the weight of the outputs. Various settings will cause the
signals to spend more time travelling around one strange attractor rather than
the other.
Apathy and Torpor also have CV inputs. Sometimes the CV
signals are injected onto the chaotic signals but depending upon conditions may
cause windows of periodicity or voltage jumps. Generally the results are good.
The X, Y & Z outputs for each Sloth are taken from
different stages of the circuit and are all different to each other, although Z is simply
the inverted version of Y. The three Z outputs are also fed into a Difference
Rectifier and the results of this are available from the + and – outputs at the
bottom of the panel. The Difference Rectifier outputs are (ignoring diode
voltage drops):
out + = VApathy
+VInertia - VTorpor
If greater than 0, otherwise 0
out - = VApathy
+VInertia - VTorpor
If less than 0, otherwise 0
PCB set (2) - US$24
White Panel - US$20
Ltd run Black Panel - US$21
Ltd run Black Panel - US$21
assembled - US$210
This is not a suitable build for beginners, if you are new to synth DIY, I suggest you get the thru-hole single Sloth.
Note - for versions 1-4 of the bottom PCB; jacks, pots and LEDs go on the BACK of the PCB.
For version 5, follow the labels printed on the PCB.
I want this! Where can I buy?
ReplyDeleteDirectly from me, contact details on the right side of the page
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ReplyDeleteNote for other builders: solder the panel components to the pcb side without writing (not the side with the printed squares marking the pots, etc.) otherwise the pins that connect the two pcbs will be misrouted -- no connection for inertia or +/-
ReplyDeleteas shown in the photos above :)
DeleteHot damn I just bought a used broken never worked module off MW with these EXACT SYMPTOMS! Stoked to repair and finally have some NLC in my rack!
DeleteI love my 4 hp Sloths! Do you know the voltage range of these?
ReplyDeleteThanks!
much the same as the 4HP; generally +/-5V
Deleteperfect!
DeleteIs there a mouser cart for this unit? Thanx!
ReplyDeleteNot that I know of, don't use Mouser much myself. Much cheaper & easier to buy most of the parts from Tayda
DeleteGet the jacks from Modular Addict or Thonk, bi polar LEDs off ebay.
Hi, how physically deep is the 8HP Triple Sloth module? Wondering if it will fit in my case, which is 2in deep.
ReplyDeleteYou’ll have over half an inch spare
ReplyDeleteHello !! :) oh what a module... Looks so fantastic. Congrats !!.
ReplyDeletePlease. Is the diy still available for purchase ??. Thank you very much ! Have a great day! :)
Yes plenty of boards in stock. Email to order, address at top of page
DeleteThe Tayda potentiometers indicated in BOM have plastic shafts which are already the mini-knobs. What are the bigger black knobs you put on them and are there alternative matching knobs ?
ReplyDeleteThe pots in the BOM have steel shafts, I don't really use the plastic ones so much. Mainly NLC modules use Davies 1900H clones for knobs. It is best to find the ones with the brass insert otherwise the screw doesn't tighten well.
DeleteThe link to the build guide & bom above needs to be updated, looks like you moved the files. Looking forward to building this!
ReplyDelete